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1954 SABRINA (Our heroine wears an incredible party gown in this one)   AUDREY HEPBURN 
1956 SAILOR BEWARE!  (Nice shots of bridal dress, also shot of the bridesmaid, her taffeta dress rustling as she twirls, showing it to the best man.)    Review by David  PEGGY MOUNT
1991 SCORCHERS (Lovely full-skirted wedding dress, with crinolined bridesmaids, who step out of and discard their hooped underskirts to dance.) EMILY LLOYD
1978 SAME TIME, NEXT YEAR (Full regalia fifties petticoats all over the place in first vignette. Later, we see a nice 50s cocktail dress) ELLEN BURSTYN
1936 SAN FRANCISCO  (Stage petticoats) JEANETTE  MacDONALD
1940 OLVIA de HAVILLAND
1959 SAPPHIRE  (Shots of red taffeta waist slip that a murdered girl was wearing; you hear it rustle, handled by the detective looking for forensic clues. Also, scenes in a nightclub - upskirt views of girl dancer in blue and white paper nylon petti.)  Review by David YVONNE MITCHELL
1945 INGRID BERGMAN
1960 SATURDAY NIGHT AND SUNDAY MORNING (50s bouffant) SHIRLEY ANNE FIELD
2001 SAY IT ISN'T SO (Bridal froufrou) HEATHER GRAHAM
1952
SCARAMOUCHE -- This marvelous swashbuckler features some beautiful gowns from the 18th century.

Pertinent stillclip

ELEANOR PARKER &
JANET LEIGH
1934 THE SCARLET EMPRESS -- Bouffant gowns MARLENE DIETRICH
1979 SCAVENGER HUNT -- French maid pettis!   STEPHANIE FARACY
1960
SCHOOL FOR SCOUNDRELS -- Nice views of Miss Scott`s dress and frothy pettis at the tennis courts of the tennis club,
and at dinner, wearing a wild silk or taffeta full skirted dress. 
Review by Dave Barber
JANETTE SCOTT
1992 SCHOOL TIES -- The dance scene - 50s Bouffant AMY LOCANE
1957 SCHÖN IST DIE WELT -- West German      Vidclip MADI RAHL
1988 SCREWBALL HOTEL -- Really BAD film--but the last 30 minutes makes it all worthwhile! -- Stephanie says it's her favorite! LORI DEANN PALLETT
1961 IM SCHWARZEN RÖßL -- Austrian   Video - Singing scene KARIN DOR
1940 THE SEA HAWK -- Beautiful gowns BRENDA MARSHALL
1959 SEASON OF PASSION -- 50S Bouffant ANNE BAXTER
1955 THE SECOND GREATEST SEX   Lobby Card MAMIE VAN DOREN
1937 SECOND HONEYMOON    Publicity picture LORETTA YOUNG
1962 SECRET FILE: HOLLYWOOD  Lobby Card (featuring Maya Del Mar - no knowledge as to whether this is indicative of petti-content) MARALOU GRAY
1949 THE SECRET GARDEN -- Little Miss O'Brien wears pettis and full length frilly bloomers throughout most of the film. This movie might be hard to catch now, with the release of the 1993 version. By the way, have you ever noticed that it is always the older film versions of these classic stories that have the most luscious frills? Review by Pammie MARGARET O'BRIEN
2008 THE SECRET OF MOONACRE -- Features an interesting period gown with cage crinoline bustle on the OUTSIDE. DAKOTA BLUE RICHARDS
1947 THE SECRET LIFE OF WALTER MITTY       STILLCLIP  --     Hooped anti-Bellum dresses VIRGINIA MAYO
1952 THE SECRET PEOPLE         STILLCLIP AUDREY HEPBURN
1933 SECRETS    STILLCLIPS, VIDEO AND LOBBY CARD    MARY PICKFORD
1957 SEND A WOMAN WHEN THE DEVIL FAILS -- French -- "Quand la femme s'en mêle"           Stillclips   Film can be downloadedhere EDWIGE FEUILLÈRE
1958 SENIOR PROM   Lobby Card BARBARA BOSTOCK
1955 SENSO -- Italian (Beauty in lovely 1860's crinolines. Petticoat scene as well.) ALIDA VALLI
1956
SERENADE --  Fifties bouffant
JOAN FONTAINE
2005
SERENITY -- About halfway through the film  take notice of what the female robot is wearing -- VERY bouffant!
GINA TORRES
1959 SERIOUS CHARGE -- At the filming DOREEN FREEMAN
1954
SEVEN BRIDES FOR SEVEN BROTHERS -- Lots of "Western" pettis here!     Vidclip    #2    #3
JANE POWELL &
JULIE NEWMAR
1957 THE SEVEN HILLS OF ROME -- 50s Bouffant MARISA ALLASIO
1960
SEVEN THIEVES -- One, in particularly wonderful, bouffant 50s dress.
JOAN COLLINS
1972 1776 -- Revolutionary War underskirts here and there.          Vidclip     Full clip can be seen on TCM! BLYTHE DANNER
2008 SEX AND THE CITY: THE MOVIE     Publicity SARAH JESSICA PARKER
2010 SEX AND THE CITY 2    Lobby Poster   Stillclip SARAH JESSICA PARKER
1957 THE SHADOW ON THE WINDOW (50s bouffant with displays of pettis) BETTY GARRETT
1989 SHAG -- (Nice bedroom scene of the gals out partying with a cute little pink net petticoat and one of the other gals is in her milky white full slip)   Video (at 10:30 to 13:10) BRIDGET FONDA & PHOEBE CATES
1959
THE SHAGGY DOG (Annette and the gang in some nice frocks at a dance. The colorized version of this is worth a view!)  
ANNETTE FUNICELLO & ROBERTA SHORE
1960 THE SHAKEDOWN (50s bouffant, especially Miss Buxton singing at a cabaret) SHEILA BUXTON
1956 SHAKE, RATTLE AND ROCK (Rock 'n Roll dancing, excellent footage of petticoats etc.)   Short Film Clip   LISA GAYE
1994 SHAKE, RATTLE AND ROCK Premium movie channel remake of Shake, Rattle & Rock.  (Wonderful scenes abound in this COLOR remake of this classic film! The dancing in the courtroom is a standout. A lady in the courtroom tries to cover up the visible panties of a dancer by adjusting the girl's petticoat when she is held over head by her partner! Wow! Nice white, full petticoat. Another MUST!) RENÉE ZELLEGER
1968 SHALAKO -- (Western pettis)  Off-set shots BRIGITTE BARDOT
1953
SHE'S BACK ON BROADWAY -- Early 50s bouffant and stage pettis
VIRGINIA MAYO &
PATRICE WYMORE
2006 SHE'S THE MAN    STILLCLIPS AMANDA BYNES
1944
SHINE ON, HARVEST MOON  (Stage froufrou)
ANN SHERIDAN
1965 SHIP OF FOOLS (Watch for the young teen girl at the party--her bouffant frock is marvelous. Also, some very poufy Spanish dancers are highlighted.) VIVIEN LEIGH

1957

THE SHIP WAS LOADED a/k/a "Carry On Admiral" - The wind and the crinnies! PEGGY CUMMINS

1943

SHOP GIRLS OF PARIS -- French   ("Au bonheur des dames")  1890s cage crinolines/dressing scenes      
Full movie on
BLANCHETTE BRUNOY
1936 SHOW BOAT  (The heroine sheds two petticoats from over a very wide hoopskirt, an there is a nice cancan sequence)          IRENE DUNN & HELEN MORGAN
1951
SHOW BOAT (The wonderful costumes are quite petti-and hoop-oriented throughout the show.)

STILLCLIPS

KATHRYN GRAYS0N,
AVA GARNER &
MARGE CHAMPION
1964 A SHOT IN THE DARK (Flamenco costumes!) ELKE SOMMER
1991 SHOUT SARAH BENEDICT
1957  SILK STOCKINGS (Cyd’s dance with the petticoat is the highlight!)  CYD CHARISSE
1948
SILVER RIVER (Western hoops and, later, bustles)
ANN SHERIDAN
1955 JOANNE DRU
1952
SINGING IN THE RAIN (Stage panniers...)
JEAN HAGEN
1955

1956

1957

TRILOGY:

SISSI -- West German/Austrian (ROMY SCHNEIDER)

SISSI - DIE JUNGE KAISERIN--West German/Austrian (ROMY SCHNEIDER)
5 CLIPS FOR PARTS ONE & TWO

SISSI - SCHICKSALSJAHRE EINER KAISERIN--West German/Austrian (ROMY SCHNEIDER) 
14 CLIPS FOR THIS PART

ROMY SCHNEIDER  
(in all three)
1984
SIXTEEN CANDLES -- Good scene where girl takes off her long prom slip in public before getting into a car.
MOLLY RINGWALD
1943 THE SKY'S THE LIMIT -- Good petti display in dance JOAN LESLIE
1953
SMALL TOWN GIRL -- Fifties bouffant, mostly stage           Video
JANE POWELL
(?) SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES MARGE CHAMPION
1958 THE SNORKEL -- Fifties bouffant - note especially toward the end, when Miss Miller's pettis are displayed - very stiff! MANDY MILLER
2012 SNOW WHITE AND THE HUNTSMAN   Preview picture KRISTEN STEWART &
CHARLIZE ThERON
1998 A SOLDER'S DAUGHTER NEVER CRIES -- Watch the flashbacks for 50s froufrou. LEELEE SOBIESKI
1950
SO LONG AT THE FAIR -- In addition to some Gay Nineties cancan, watch for the gorgeously laced gown Miss Simmons wears for s large part of the film.
JEAN SIMMONS
1958
SOME CAME RUNNING -- Limited 50s bouffant
SHIRLEY MACLAINE
2006 SOMETHING NEW -- Bridal froufrou SANAA LATHAN
2005
SON OF THE MASK -- Petticoats worn as skirts in a dance sequence
(UNSPECIFIED)
2005 SOPHIE – BRAUT WIDER WILLEN ('Sophie - The Unwilling Bride') German TVS --
Plenty of 19th century hoops (crinolines) and full length petticoats! 
Sample video #1   #2   (both dubbed in unknown language - not German)
YVONNE CATTERFELD & MELANIE BLOCKSDORF
1982  SOPHIE'S CHOICE  Good Scene! MERYL STREEP
1953 KATHRYN GRAYSON
1923
SOULS FOR SALE (silent movie) -- Some nice frilly dresses in circus scenes. The dresses appear to be tulle with lots
of petticoat stuff going on underneath.
ELEANOR BOARDMAN
1965 THE SOUND OF MUSIC -- The main highlight is the dance in the gazebo when Miss Carr is lifted from bench to bench by her beau!  Not a lot of petticoat, but sweet nonetheless.  But there is more. Thousands of poufies must have this movie.  Even the puppets get in on the act !  "Auf Wiedersehen Good Bye" is my favourite bit.  Review by Dara Jane    Stillclips ANGELA CARTWRIGHT, CHARMIAN CARR,
DEBBIE TURNER,
KYM KARATH
1958 SOUTH PACIFIC     Still-clips MITZI GAYNOR
1987 SPACEBALLS -- Wedding gown froufrou   Still-clips DAPHNE ZUNIGA
1961 SPARE THE ROD -- British -- One of the teenage students of a teacher tries to seduce him after the school dance. She is dressed extremely 'en bouffant', and when she lies seductively on the bed, we are treated to a view of the swirls of frilly cancan petticoats she is wearing! There is also an exciting display of pettis as she goes up the stairs to her apartment.     Stillclips BETTY McDOWALL
1963 SPENCER'S MOUNTAIN MAUREEN O'HARA
1958 THE SPIDER -- Good dance scene with plenty of petti-show.  Full film available on YouTube JUNE KENNEY
1958 THE SPIDER a/k/a EARTH VERSUS THE (GIANT) SPIDER (Fifties bouffant and froufrou) JUNE KENNY
1964 SPIDER BABY -- The film deals with a mentally ill family with two teenage girls who act like little girls and dress that way, too!
Bizarre little film is a cult classic today.
CAROL OHMART
1955 DAS SPIEL WAR SEIN FLUCH -- West German -- 19c hoopskirts   Stillclips    #1     #2 LISELOTTE PULVER
1999 SPLENDOR Ms. Robertson wears a petti as outerwear to a party/dance--at the beginning of the film.  Review by John       
Ms. Robertson is seen having sex with a boy through her wonderful petticoat, which is made of pink net. Very flirty, sexy and hot!
 4 stillclips
KATHLEEN ROBERTSON
2003
SPIN (Mid-fifties bouffant)
PAULA GARCÉS
1948 SPRING IN PARK LANE -- British         StillClip ANNA NEAGLE
1940
SPRING PARADE (In one [scene], she removes countless peasant-type petticoats, leaving a trail across the floor. In the second,
the operation is reversed as she puts them on again.) 
Reviewed enthusiastically by Richard
DEANNA DURBIN
1934 STAND UP AND CHEER (A classic!)      Still-clips   SHIRLEY TEMPLE
1952 THE STAR (Early fifties full.  And Ms. Davis wears a dress, popular at the time, which exposes a portion of petticoat-kind of a side Polonaise - Pannier?)

BETTE DAVIS

1954
A STAR IS BORN (Judy wears some nice full dresses in this one, many times showing her petticoats.)    Still-clip
JUDY GARLAND
1951 STARLIFT (Early fifties full skirts plus stage pettis) DORIS DAY & OTHERS
1952 STARS AND STRIPS FOREVER (a.k.a. "Marching Along") (Check out the stage dance scenes, as well as other petti-showings.) DEBRA PAGET
1945 STATE FAIR MARGIE FRAKE
1962 STATE FAIR (Watch for the dress in "It Might as Well be Spring, near the beginning.) PAMELA TIFFIN
2004 THE STEPFORD WIVES (There are a LOT of pettis to be seen in this movie. They all occur in the first half hour or so, and they  are not 'full' looks at pettis, but there are many many pettis that show a bit under the hem of a dress; there are lots of views of the hidden bottom edge of a petti pushing the hem of a dress out, and lots of colors of pettis to sneak peeks at.
The best scene is the Fourth of July party/picnic, which even includes a square dance scene. During the square dance, they quickly show several women sitting up above the dance floor [I think in a loft-like setting], and one of them has a very full yellow petti showing in all its splendor as her skirt is pulled up over her knees.)  
Reviewed by 'Lingerie Lover'    Still-clip         Vid-clip (6.5 Mbyte)           Site                     
NICOLE KIDMAN
1952 STOP, YOU'RE KILLING ME (Early fifties bouffant) VIRGINIA GIBSON &
CLAIRE TREVOR
1943 STORMY WEATHER       News clip LENA HORNE
1957 THE STORY OF ESTHER COSTELLO (A bit of50s bouffant, and a very short petti scene) HEATHER SEARS

1953

 THE STORY OF THREE LOVES (Fifties bouffant and tutus)  MOIRA SHEARER,
LESLIE CARON &
PIER ANGELI
1954 THE STORY OF VICKI (MÄDCHENJAHRE EINER KÖNIGIN) Austrian (Nice 1850's hoopskirts) ROMY SCHNIEDER
1999 STRANGER THAN FICTION (Lots of bridesmaid froufrou!) MacKENSIE ASTIN
1951 STRANGERS ON A TRAIN (Early 50s bouffant cocktail dresses) RUTH ROMAN
1960 STRANGERS WHEN WE MEET (50 bouffant) KIM NOVAK
1955 STRATEGIC AIR COMMAND (Delightful Ms. Allyson awaits pilot Jimmy Stewart in fabulous 1955 gowns, supported by voluminous petticoats, in this now-dated but still enjoyable U.S. Air Force advocacy film.) Reviewed by Rhonda Risque JUNE ALLYSON 
2012
STRAWBERRY SUMMER

(Great views of red tulle bouffant petticoats worn by several women throughout; Julie plays Strawberry Queen for small town Strawberry Festival in which she wears red prom-style frocks and red petticoats. Towards the end of the film over 12” of petticoat show below the hem of her carnival queen frock...gorgeous!)    BUY THE DVD

JULIE MOND,
SHELLEY LONG &
CINDY WILLIAMS
1993 STRICTLY BALLROOM -- Australian (Some classic (older) full skirted ballroom attire is a highlight. These are the fuller, froufrou petticoats that you don’t see anymore! <sigh>. TARA MORICE
1998 STRIKE! a/k/a "All I Wanna Do" -- A private girls school, and private boys school, get together at a dance. Some 60's pettis, dresses etc. with one girl exiting through a window near the end of the film, dressed in a skirt showing red froufrou underneath. KIRSTEN DUNST &
MONICA KEENA
1951 THE STRIP -- Early fifties full skirts and poufy cigarette girl outfit. SALLY FORREST
1954 ANN BLYTHE
1996 THE STUPIDS (Peeks at some crinies, little daughter and mother in a stupid movie!) 
Yes, this is an insipid stupid movie, but the girl’s dresses and petticoats are worth the rental on this one! Landy’s shortly dress and petticoat is a real flirt. Whew! 
JESSICA LUNDY
2003
SUBTERANO (At the beginning, Ms. Segura wears a futuristic clear plastic skirt with a crowded petti underneath. Unfortunately, she is killed early on.)
VERONICA SEGURA
1938 SUEZ -- Lavish, crinolined gowns certainly reflect Miss Young's role as Empress Eugenie of France, or to be correct, Countess Eugenie de Montijo, her maiden name before she married Emperor Napoleon III.    Another still clip     YouTube clip #1   #2 LORETTA YOUNG
1960 SURFSIDE 6    (Fifties bouffant) DIANE McBAIN
1963 SUMMER HOLIDAY (Check out the dance scene!) LAURIE PETERS
1963 SUMMER MAGIC -- The film is set at the turn of the century, but looks more like 1963. As a result, it features some dresses/petticoats which look more like that era. A cute song/dance in the girl's bedroom, "Walk Feminine," is a standout!  HAYLEY MILLS
1959 A SUMMER PLACE -- Some Fifties bouffant - but there should be more! SANDRA DEE
1950 SUMMER STOCK   3 stillclips MARJORIE MAIN,
GLORIA DeHAVEN &
JUDY GARLAND
1955 SUMMERTIME (a/k/a "Summer Madness") -- (There is a nice scene with Kate strolling along the canal in Venice while wearing a bouffant dress. She falls into the water and comes out drenched, including her lovely petticoats.)

The (French) caption of the snapshot reads: "Inattention, combined with an awkward move by youngster Gaitano Andiero, her guide (in the screenplay) showing Venice, Italy round to her and ...splash!  Katharine Hepburn loses her balance and falls into the polluted waters of the lagoon. Her performance in that movie was to bring her an Oscar nomination, but her fall into the waters would cause an eye illness from which she would never recover. A very sad story in the end."

KATHERINE HEPBURN
1961 SUSAN SLADE 3 stillclips CONNIE STEVENS and
DOROTHY McGUIRE
1954
SUSAN SLEPT HERE -- Some fifties bouffant
DEBBIE REYNOLDS
1962 DAS SÜßE LEBEN DES GRAFEN BOBBY (THE SWEET LIFE OF COUNT BOBBY) Austrian (The sweet Ms.Vivi Bach from Sweden puts her dresses down and we have a look at her beautiful petticoat! VIVI BACH
1976 SWASHBUCKLER      Off-camera shot GENEVIĖVE BUJOLD
1985 SWEET DREAMS -- (50s bouffant - one 'naked' petti) JESSICA LANG
1943 SWING SHIFT MAISIE        Lobby Card ANN SOTHERN
1936 SWING TIME       Still      Poster GINGER ROGERS
1964 THE SYSTEM (a/k/a "The Girl Getters") -- (Despite its release date, there IS a bit of petti-action.) JANE MERROW

food hacking workshop

 “Nowadays, though, chefs, culinary artists, experience designers, and researchers working in technology are increasingly starting to hack our experiences of flavour: everything from sonically seasoning your food through to augmented and virtual reality dining experiences.”

Joining papers, Hacking Flavour Perception

 

How can we enjoy our food and drink better by harnessing all our senses more intelligently?

Last Monday I went to a workshop entitled, intriguingly and enticingly, ‘Hacking Flavour Perception: Art, Design, Technology and Gastrophysics’. Wild horses and all that, I had the opportunity to go, and I took it.

The workshop was devised and led by Professor Charles Spence, an academic whose Oxford University bio tells us his “research focuses on how a better understanding of the human mind will lead to the better design of multisensory foods, products, interfaces, and environments in the future.”  Improving food and the circumstances in which we enjoy it is a subject of intense interest to the hospitality and the food production industries, as well as the foodie clientele which they service. Small wonder then that the hall was packed, the atmosphere electric with anticipation.

 

The speaker line up – some of the best brains in ground-breaking food and drink research

It’s curious that, despite the planet-wide and growing fascination, Charles Spence is one of a very small, select band carrying out rigorous scientific study in this area, and a glance at the programme suggested that most of the rest of the band was already assembled on the speakers’ platform. Certainly they represented an impressively catholic selection: they came from far and wide in every sense; geographic location, academic approach and background, specialisation, and personal style.

But all were tackling the same big question: how can we enjoy our food and drink better by harnessing all our senses more intelligently?

Professor Spence’s introduction to the day was appropriately all-encompassing and raised the full pack of fascinating issues – moral, psychological, linguistic, philosophic, scientific, and technological – surrounding the pleasure we get from that most fundamental of activities, eating and drinking.

 

 ‘Some of the best brains in ground-breaking food and drink research…’

Food hacking – what does this term actually mean?

Professor Spence began by explaining the deliberate selection of the word ‘hacking’ in the title of his workshop.

As a professional writer I’d thought it was an interesting term to use. It’s an ambiguous word, lending itself to different interpretations. There are two sides to the hacking coin, and Spence was honest and clear about them both.

“There is the ‘bad’ side, the ‘wicked’ side, involving synthetic chemicals” he told us; and then there is the good side.

Hacking can be constructive when, for example, the eater can be duped into thinking he’s enjoying forbidden but delicious, addictive salty or sweet food which is, in fact, relatively good for him. How does this work in practice? Well, food manufacturers, Spence informed us, are experimenting now with sugar which ‘unfolds’ on the tongue – giving a bigger bang for its buck as it were. That makes sense to me – it’s not unlike the tactile effect of a Malden salt crystal (see my post Different Kinds of Salt).

 

Guide to salt

The tactile effect of a Maldon salt crystal

 

“There is the bad side, the wicked side……” he told us.

 

So far all of this fitted with my understanding of the word, ‘to hack’, as well as that of the Oxford English Dictionary (since Professor Spence is a Professor at Somerville College, Oxford, that seemed the right reference source to consult).

 

what is food hacking?

The essential question of authority

The question of authority in this definition is paramount. Perhaps we are happy to deceive our own taste buds consciously if we’re in danger of becoming diabetic. Few of us, however, would consent to be unknowingly deceived, to be forced unconsciously into conclusions and actions we would not otherwise have taken.

But most of the  ‘hacking’ techniques described by Professor Spence, or outlined by the other speakers later, were consensual. The definition of hacking in connection with food at least, needed to be stretched somewhat.

 

Broadening the definition – the hacker hacked!

In this respect Professor Spence found the musings of the American philosopher, Peter Ludlow, to be a helpful foundation. In The Stone, a philosophy forum, Ludlow describes a visit to a town in Germany where a friend’s wife had enveloped the barrel of a gun of a World War II tank in a colourful woolly jersey. The tank had been placed outside a former Nazi concentration camp for women. The woolly jersey mocked the macho symbolism of the gun, which the women of the town then deemed to have been ‘knit-hacked’.

 

“A friend’s wife had enveloped the gun in a woolly jersey….it was deemed to have been ‘knit-hacked'”

 

Ludlow explains the use of this term as follows:

“The intention here was clear: an attempt to defend the traditional, less sinister understanding of hacktivism and perhaps broaden it a bit, adding some positive affect to boot; more specifically, that hacking is fundamentally about refusing to be intimidated or cowed into submission by any technology, about understanding the technology and acquiring the power to repurpose it to our individual needs, and for the good of the many. Moreover, they were saying that a true hacktivist doesn’t favour new technology over old — what is critical is that the technologies be in our hands rather than out of our control. This ideal, theoretically, should extend to beyond computer use, to technologies for food production, shelter and clothing, and of course, to all the means we use to communicate with one another.”

Aha! So, in a Matrix-like reversal, the individual, the food hacktivist, takes control by rebelling against the traditions and culture which sub-consciously inform his perceptions. He is able to hack the system which has lulled him into unquestioning acceptance.

As Professor Spence explains, “we’ve all been told by our parents, ‘don’t play with your food’, but now it’s not just acceptable to play, it’s a creative, constructive approach being adopted by food professionals and renowned chefs from around the world”. And they’re doing this in a bid to wake up our tastebuds and get our noses twitching thoughtfully and appreciatively.

 

What does food hacking mean?

The film, The Matrix, depicts a dystopian future in which reality as perceived by most humans is actually simulated.

 

There’s nothing very new about all this

However, the multisensory approach is not particularly revolutionary or new. In The Futurist Cookbook, the Italian poet and editor, Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, writing in the 1930s, presented many of the concepts which we think of as cutting-edge today.

For example, Marinetti describes his concept of  ‘Aerofood’, an experience which involves the diner helping himself with the fingers (Marinetti eschewed knives and forks) of his right hand to some olives and fennel while at the same time repeatedly stroking with his left a tactile square made of sandpaper, silk and velvet. As the eater chewed he would be sprayed with the scent of carnations and he’d be listening to the sound of an aeroplane engine overlayed by a Bach cantata.

 

Futurist cooking

Marinetti’s Futurist Cookbook wasn’t all that successful. His passionate disapproval of pasta might have had something to do with it….

 

‘….repeatedly stroking with his left a tactile square…..’

 

It’s a many-layered, modernistic, multi-sensory to match any conjured up at The Tickets Bar, Schloss Schauenstein, or The Fat Duck.

 

Surprise – in a good way – is what we’re all aspiring to

However, the key difference, Spence told us, is that there is nothing you’d want to taste in Marinetti’s book, whereas today’s chefs are aiming to delight and amaze. And in this they are not altogether altruistic. “Surprise”, comments Spence, “equals marketing success”.

‘Food hacking’, then, has come to mean ‘being playful and fun’ in order to encourage eaters to become more mindful of what they’re putting in their mouths, as well as to intensify their pleasure.

 

The three main approaches to food hacking

Spence identifies three means of achieving a ‘food hack’:

 

  1. via the food itself

Take for example the humble carrot which started life purple but was genetically modified to become orange, perhaps as a way of honouring William of Orange (NB – this story is most likely apocryphal – follow this link for more on that).

 

food hacking

Originally, until ‘hacked’, carrots were purple.

 

  1. via the mind and the taste buds

Food hacking can be constitutive (an integral part of the tasting process). For example, if a liquid is ‘fizzy’ this characteristic contributes to the flavour.  Another example is the extraordinary effect of ‘miracle fruit’ (Synsepalum dulcificum, a berry), which when eaten causes sour food – such as lemons – to taste sweet. Ordinary toothpaste can achieve the reverse effect, changing the flavour of orange juice from nice to nasty.

 

food hacking

Miracle berries make any sour fruit eaten subsequently taste sweet.

 

Then there are the incredible Electric Flowers (Acmella Oleracea). Eating them results in a tingling sensation, a numbness and increased salivation on the tongue. The effect is, apparently, like eating a nine volt battery, only, sort of, nice.

‘The effect is like eating a nine-volt battery, only, sort of, nice.’

Not to be forgotten is the contribution made by the nose –  ‘the ventriloquist in our mouth’ as Spence describes it. Many of the flavours we think we taste on our tongue are actually registered in the nose – fruity, creamy, burnt, among others. The nose can be easily ‘tricked’, he points out, for example by Heston Blumenthal, when he spritzes vinegar over his guests’ fish and chips.

And there is a further philosophic consideration. Where does flavour actually exist, where does it reside? Is it on the tongue, or is flavour a brain construct? This is a field of study where more questions are raised than answers reached.

 

Electric flowers - like eating a nine volt battery

Electric flowers – like eating a nine volt battery.

 

  1. Via the environment

Food hacking can also be modulatory (affecting or adapting but not direct) – for example by the use of music or lighting. A number of the speakers later spoke more specifically on these techniques.

 

food hacking

Would the violin music make the coffee taste better…. or worse?

 

Professor Spence summarised, saying that the purpose of the workshop was to give leading researchers in the field a platform to describe their experiences: everything is being tried – from sonic seasoning to virtual reality dining experiences. The audience was to be treated to all that was the weird and wonderful in the world of cutting-edge food and drink, and we were not disappointed.

 

This post is dedicated to Charles Spence, who commented on reading it, “…perfect, couldn’t have summarised it better myself”.

 

The other presentations made at the workshop

 

The stellar line up for the rest of the day included:

  • Professor Katsunori Okajima, from Yokohama University who talked about how our sense of taste can be duped by what we see

 

  • Dr Sebastian Ahnert, from Cambridge University, presenting research done into the science of optimum food and drink pairing

 

  • Steve Keller, of iV Audio Branding, who talked about how sound can affect the taste experience.  Follow this link for an account of that.

 

  • Dr Vaiva Kalnikaitė, of Nu Food, Cambridge who describes the difficulties of encapsulating liquid food into a solid form, and the kitchen robot 3D printer her company has designed to solve the problem.

 

  • Jesse Durnford Wood, chef-patron of Parlour restaurant in London, who uses theatre to achieve memorable dining experiences

 

  • Professor Francis McGlone, of Liverpool John Moores University, who spoke about the role the brain plays in the perception of flavour, specifically about tasters and super-tasters, or more accurately super-feelers.

 

  • Professor Charles Spence who returned to the lectern to talk about the use of different types of utensils; how Château Margaux can be developed in a lab; and how big businesses are using aroma to entice us to buy

 

  • Jozef Youssef, who describes how, as a chef, he is developing dishes based on scientific research, and how his company, Kitchen Theory is using gastrophysics to help ‘nudge guests towards an appreciation of more sustainable sources of food’

 

 Other links on Saucy Dressings you might find interesting

 

For more on Jozef Youssef and synaesthesia follow this link.

 

For a description of the Soundscapes exhibition at The National Gallery, and the food that it conjured up, follow this link.

 

For an example of Foodhacking which is a couple of millennia old, follow this link.

 

For a do-it-yourself multisensory meal, follow this link, to find cowboy films, cowboy music, and cowboy food.

 

 

For posts with accompanying music to inspire your cooking follow this link.

 

 



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